Shooting arrow after arrow using field tips and getting a good grouping is one thing, but many of us know the frustration of trading those blunt tips in for broadheads and trying to mimic the same accuracy and consistency. It can be a royal pain in the ass to say the least. I have personally spent hours trying to get broadheads to fly that claimed they would hit right where my field tips did….cough….cough….bullshit. The problem is, as bow speeds consistently get faster every year, broadhead companies are having trouble keeping up with broadhead flight at these faster speeds.
Many hunting setups are flinging arrows at 280-300 fps and up. It was only a few years ago you were doing good to be shooting 250-280 even at a high draw weight. From my personal experience, different speeds, setups, and bows will shoot the same broadhead differently. I have hunting buddies that can’t get broadheads to fly for crap that shoot well off my bow and vise versa.
The days of buying one pack of broadheads and screwing them on your arrows and going hunting are over, I don’t highly recommend doing that anyway. You basically just have to play around with your setup and try some different types of hunting broadheads until you find some that fly good and that you are comfortable with. You can follow a few guidelines and tips to help you along the way.
To help with consistency, try turning your broadheads so that the main blade (or one of the main blades) of the broadhead is in line with the cock vein of your arrow. This way every head is lined up the same through out your quiver. Before I started doing this, I would notice a few of the arrows would fly like crap while the others flew fine. Now that I turn the broadheads all the same, at least they either all fly like crap or they all fly good. It is much better than hit and miss and trying to figure out what the heck is going on.
Another tip is to play around with your arrow fletching. Straight veins will shoot differently than a helical as will different lenths of veins. The number of veins you use on an arrow will create different results. It is just a matter of playing around with different fletching setups.
It may be worth your while to buy your own fletching jig for $70 or $80, especially if you split it with a couple of friends. Buy some packs of different veins to go with it and you can sit there all day re-fletching arrows to find the right setup instead of paying an archery shop to do it. I prefer the Bitzenburger jigs the most, they’ve been around for years and they’re very reliable.
A lot of guys mess around with tuning their bows, shooting through paper, and trying to get perfect arrow flight. This is some of the more advanced techniques you can do but it isn’t necessary in my opinion. As long as you were shooting well with your field points, it’s just a matter of finding the right broadhead, fletching, and arrow combination for your bow.
You can also play around with broadhead weights. Most game heads will come in 85, 100, and 125 grains. I don’t want to get into a battle of which broadheads are best right now, but I will tell you lately I have had the most luck with 100 grain Magnus 4 blade stingers and buzz cuts. Before that I was shooting a retractable head and getting decent results.
I also want to make a point about broadhead sharpness. Be sure to have some resharpened or brand new blades in the broadheads you end up going with before you go hunting. Have some practice blades and then some sharp ones for heading to the deer stand with. It’s a common mistake to shoot the broadheads repeatedly into a target and then to go hunting with them. Sharp broadheads are a must for hunting any type of game.
Thanks for reading and happy broadhead hunting!